Bhaktapur, known as the "City of Temples" or "City of Devotees," is the smallest city in Nepal. Renowned for its perseverance in ancient Nepali culture and craftsmanship, Bhaktapur stands out as a living museum that shows the timeless marvels of the history of Nepal. Despite its area, Bhaktapur hosts twelve unique temples, each with its own historical and architectural significance. The city has remained largely untouched by Western influence, retaining its medieval culture, especially in its religious practices. Notable landmarks include the Lion Gate, Golden Gate, the Art Gallery, and the Fifty-Five Windowed Palace( 55- Jhyale Durbar).
Among Bhaktapur’s treasures, Changunarayan Temple is the oldest temple in Nepal dating back to the 5th century. Located on Changu Hill, about 12 kilometers east of Kathmandu, Changu Narayan is surrounded by a small village and a forest of champak trees, adding to its peaceful atmosphere while offering stunning views of the surrounding valley. Changunarayan Temple is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nepal and is an important cultural heritage site of Nepal.
Local legends suggest the temple dates back to 325 AD, but historical evidence from inscriptions within the temple grounds is from around the 5th century AD. One inscription on a pillar refers to King Man Deva, who ruled from 496 to 524 AD. Another inscription from 464 AD mentions Licchavi King Mandeva and events from the 3rd century, providing proof that the Changunarayan Temple is one of Nepal’s oldest structures.
Front-face of Changunarayan Temple in Bhaktapur
The temple has undergone several restorations over the centuries. The first recorded renovation happened during the reign of Siva Simha Malla from 1585 to 1614 CE. The temple of Changunarayan was restored after it caught fire in 1702 CE and gilt copper roofs were added in 1708 CE.
Changunarayan Temple in Nepal is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, a major Hindu deity. The main structure features a striking two-story pagoda roof covered in copper and gold. The temple’s wooden supports are intricately carved with life-size guardians and depictions of Vishnu’s ten avatars and other Hindu deities.
Front face of the Changunarayan Temple
The temple also houses a remarkable collection of art and artifacts, including a stone pillar with a Sanskrit inscription from 464 AD, the oldest known inscription in Nepal. Within the courtyard, smaller shrines dedicated to Shiva, Ashta Matrika, and Krishna can be found.
Devotees visit Changunarayan Temple to worship Lord Vishnu, perform rituals, and offer flowers and incense. During Vishnu-related festivals, the temple becomes vibrant with colorful worship and lively celebrations, reflecting its deep significance in the community.
Table of Content
History and Myth of Changunarayan Temple
The history of Changu Narayan Temple traces back to a time when the area was just a dense forest. According to one of the mythologies following the origin of the Changunarayan Temple, a cow herder purchased a cow from a high-caste Brahmin. This cow produced an abundance of milk. The cow herder took his new purchase to graze on the fertile hill of Changu. Strangely, after grazing on the hilltop, the cow stopped producing milk.
Confused by this, the cow herder sought help from the former owner. Together, they accompanied the cow to Changu to observe its behavior. As they watched, the cow wandered over to an old champak tree to shelter from the sun. There, the two men witnessed a small, dark-skinned boy appear and begin drinking the cow's milk.
Enraged, the men assumed the boy must be a devil. The Brahmin, believing the tree to be the devil's home, cut it down. To their shock, human blood flowed from the fallen tree. Overwhelmed with guilt for their uncertain crime, the men began to weep.
Idol in the Changunarayan Temple
At that moment, Lord Vishnu appeared from the fallen tree. He explained to the upset men that they had committed no crime. The deity revealed that he had accidentally killed a man while hunting in the forest. As punishment, he had been forced to wander the earth, hungry. Mount Garuda, learning of Vishnu's plight, had descended on the hilltop where Vishnu lived anonymously, surviving on the milk of cows.
When the Brahmin cut down the tree, he inadvertently beheaded Vishnu, thus freeing him from his punishment. Upon learning this, the two men immediately began to worship the location and established a Vishnu temple there.
Today, it is said that the priests of Changu Narayan Temple are descendants of the original Brahmin, while the caretakers trace their lineage back to the cow herder.
The architecture of Changu Narayan Temple
Changu Narayan Temple stands as an outstanding example of pagoda-style architecture in Nepal and is one of the most significant historical sites in the Kathmandu Valley. Believed to be the country’s oldest temple, it showcases the exceptional craftsmanship of ancient Nepalese builders.
The temple’s design follows the classical multilevel, multi-tiered roof characteristic of pagoda structures. It features two stepped core roofs covered with clay tiles and intricately carved wooden trusses (Tudal) that support the structure. The woodwork is especially notable on the windows, doors, and supporting members.
At the center of the temple, a main tower rises above two levels of story pillars, supported by wooden beams and resting on stone platforms. This construction creates a load-bearing structure elevated above the ground level on a stone base.
Surrounding the central tower is a large courtyard enclosed by walls. The char bag area contains smaller shrines dedicated to various deities, along with inscriptions and stelae (an upright stone slab) of historical and religious significance. The courtyard provides an open space for worship and general gatherings within the temple complex.
Idol designs in Tudals of Changunarayan Temple
The decorative elements enhance the temple’s design. The roofs are topped with metal vajras, or thunderbolts, on the finials, symbolizing divine power. Bells and prayer flags further contribute to the temple’s beauty and spiritual ambiance.
Despite many challenges, including natural disasters, Changu Narayan Temple stands out as an important example of Nepal’s architecture and culture. It's beautiful design and detailed craftsmanship continue to impress and inspire respect, making it a cherished monument both in Nepal and around the world.
How to reach Changu Narayan Temple?
Many transport options are available from Kathmandu to Changu Narayan Temple, making the journey easy. A bus ride takes about 90 minutes, while a cab or private vehicle gets you there in around 45 minutes. However, due to Kathmandu's heavy traffic, you should add an extra 30 to 60 minutes to your itinerary.
Souvenier shops in Changunarayan
To avoid the worst traffic, departing between 6-7 AM is best. Buses will take you to Bhaktapur, where you can catch another ride to Changu Narayan. If you’re staying in Bhaktapur, it’s a great starting point for your visit. You can find both regular and private buses there at good prices.
No matter which mode of transport you choose, you’ll end up at a parking lot near the temple. After purchasing your entrance ticket, you need to walk for around 10 minutes to reach the Temple. Along the way, you’ll pass traditional Newari-style houses and small stalls set up by local vendors selling souvenirs, adding local charm to your journey.
Entrance fees for Changu Narayan Temple
Changu Narayan Temple has distinct entrance fees depending on one’s nationality. Here is a brief guide to the entrance fees for Changu Narayan Temple
SAARC Nationals: NPR 100
Foreign Nationals: NPR 300
Chinese Nationals: NPR 300
Nepalese Citizens: Free Entry
Accommodations and Restaurants near Changu Narayan Temple
Accommodations near Changu Narayan Temple are limited but growing. Most of the visitors to the temple stay in nearby Bhaktapur or Kathmandu and visit the temple in the daytime. If you want to put up in closer lodges, there are a few basic lodges in Changu Narayan village itself. The oldest guest house, located just before the entrance of the temple, offers basic rooms with a view of the mountains. For more upscale accommodations, about 3 km from the temple, a hotel serves up panoramic views of the Kathmandu Valley from the comfort of cozy rooms.
In Bhaktapur, about 6 km away, visitors can find a wider range of lodging options. Hotels in this area offer comfortable rooms and easy access to both Changu Narayan and Bhaktapur Durbar Square. For a unique cultural experience, some accommodations provide restored traditional Newari houses, immersing guests in local architecture and customs.
Most of the restaurants are small, locally-owned, and only offer traditional Nepali food. Right next to the temple entrance is a cafe that serves simple Nepali and Western meals. Several family-run restaurants in the village present an excellent opportunity to sample local Newari food—in particular their famous bara, choila, and sel roti.
Places to visit near Changu Narayan Temple
Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Bhaktapur Durbar Square is a historic area located in Bhaktapur. The square features some of Nepal's most beautiful architecture, including the 55 Window Palace, the Golden Gate, and the Nyatapol Temple. Once the royal palace of the Bhaktapur Kingdom, the square is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It attracts tourists from around the world who come to admire its intricate wood carvings, sculptures, and temples.
The distance between Bhaktapur Durbar Square and Changu Narayan Temple is about 6 kilometers. Due to winding roads and hilly terrain, traveling by vehicle can take 30 minutes to an hour. Alternatively, visitors can hike between the two sites, which takes around 2-3 hours and offers stunning countryside views. This hike is popular among tourists who want to enjoy Nepal’s natural beauty while exploring its cultural landmarks.
Changu Narayan Museum
Changunarayan Museum
The Changu Narayan Museum is located on a hill next to Bhaktapur, Nepal, and is part of the Changu Narayan temple complex. It houses several ancient historical artifacts related to the Hindu and Buddhist cultures of Nepal, including sculptures, inscriptions, and religious manuscripts. One of the primary exhibits is a bronze statue of Lord Vishnu dating back to the 5th century. The museum also showcases architectural components from the temple, such as carved wooden struts and lintels. Both the temple and the museum are significant cultural heritage sites and are listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Doleshhwor Mahadeva Temple
Doleshhwor Mahadev Temple is an important religious site in Nepal dedicated to Lord Shiva. It sits in Sipadol, Bhaktapur district, on the eastern side of the Kathmandu Valley. People consider it one of the most revered Shiva temples in the valley. The temple offers a peaceful environment and attracts many pilgrims, especially during Shivaratri and Teej when thousands visit to pray.
The distance between Changu Narayan Temple and Doleshwhor Mahadev Temple is approximately 16 kilometers via road. The drive takes roughly 30-45 minutes, depending on the traffic. You can reach there by heading south from Changu Narayan towards Bhaktapur city. You may visit these two temples by public transport, taxi, or private vehicle.
Siddha Pokhari
Siddhapokhari in Bhaktapur
Siddha Pokhari (Newari translation: Ta-Pukhu) is one of the largest and oldest ponds in Bhaktapur built in the 15 century during the regime of King Yakshya Malla. Covering an area of approximately 168,000 square feet in rectangular size, this pond is surrounded by ancient stone structures and buildings of old-style wooden architecture. People believe performing rituals and religious ceremonies here helps attain spiritual growth, wisdom, and special powers (Siddhi). In this area, there are ancient shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Tripurasundari, which further add to the divine significance of the place.
The approximate distance to Siddha Pokhari from the Changu Narayan Temple is 4.8km. With the help of local transportation or a taxi, you can cover this distance in about 15 minutes.
Cultural Practices and Festivals of Changu Narayan Temple
Changu Narayan Temple is one of the ancient temples of Nepal and the most important Hindu temple in Nepal, located near Bhaktapur. Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the temple plays a central role in various cultural practices and festivals. Each year, its religious significance shines through countless rituals and vibrant celebrations.
Sindur Jatra
One important festival celebrated by Hindus is Changu Narayan Jatra, which typically takes place in October or November. During this festival, priests mount the main idol of Lord Vishnu on a chariot and parade it around the village. The procession features music, dance, and devotional songs, drawing many people who come to join the prayers and enjoy the festivities.
Another major event is Haribodhini Ekadashi, held in November, which marks the awakening of Lord Vishnu from his four-month-long sleep. On this day, devotees fast and perform special pujas, believing it brings greater power to their prayers.
The temple also celebrates major Hindu festivals like Dashain and Tihar, during which it is adorned with flowers and lights, and special prayers are conducted. For the Newari New Year, the Mha Puja ceremony takes place, where individuals worship their bodies as the temple of the soul.
Priests and caretakers perform daily rituals from morning to evening throughout the year. Devotees visit regularly, offering flowers, fruits, and sweets. Visitors walk around the temple in a clockwise direction, which is believed to bring good luck and spiritual merit. These daily practices help keep the temple vibrant and preserve the worship traditions at Changu Narayan.
Religious Significance of Changu Narayan Temple
Changu Narayan Temple holds great religious significance for Hindus, particularly those who worship Lord Vishnu. As one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal, it has a well-documented history spanning over 1,500 years. The temple bridges ancient Hindu traditions and current practices, connecting worshippers with the generations of people who have prayed here. It stands out among the Hindu temples in Kathmandu, preserving a deep spiritual heritage and offering a profound link to the past.
Given Lord Vishnu's role as the protector and preserver of the universe, it’s no surprise that the temple is a major pilgrimage site. Hindus believe that Vishnu maintains cosmic order and appears on Earth through various incarnations. Inside the temple, statues and carvings of Vishnu and his avatars serve as focal points for prayer and meditation, adding to the temple's sacred atmosphere.
Hindu God: Lord Vishnu
The temple is also rich in myths that enhance its spiritual significance. One well-known legend tells of Vishnu taking the form of Changu Narayan to defeat a demon and save his devotee, Sudarshan. These stories, like epic tales of creation and destruction, not only captivate the faithful but also highlight important religious teachings and moral lessons.
During Hindu festivals, especially those honoring Vishnu, Changu Narayan Temple becomes a lively center of worship. These festivals are deeply spiritual, bringing people together through shared beliefs and practices. The joyful atmosphere is often seen as a sign of divine blessings.
The temple’s beauty, with its intricate architecture and careful maintenance, reflects the devotion of its caretakers and worshippers. The gilded roofs, detailed carvings, and regular renovations show a long-standing commitment to Vishnu worship. For many visitors, this beauty inspires their spiritual journey.
Visitors often report feeling a unique spiritual energy at Changu Narayan. They believe this sense of sanctity comes from centuries of continuous worship, the presence of holy objects, and the natural beauty of the site. Located on a hilltop and surrounded by champak trees, the temple embodies the Hindu belief in the connection between the divine and nature, helping worshippers feel closer to both the earthly and spiritual realms.
Damage and Conservation Efforts at Changu Narayan Temple Following the 2015 Earthquake
The Changu Narayan Temple suffered severe damage from the April 2015 earthquake. The earthquake caused extensive structural damage, including large cracks in the walls and foundation, which made the temple vulnerable. Smaller shrines collapsed, and many valuable artifacts, sculptures, and carvings were damaged or displaced.
Immediately after the earthquake, conservation efforts began to prevent further damage. UNESCO played a leading role in coordinating the restoration and providing technical assistance. An expert team from UNESCO assessed the damage and created a rebuilding plan.
In 2016, the Government of Japan, through the Japanese Agency for International Cooperation, pledged financial support for the temple’s restoration. Their funds repaired the damaged parts of the temple and provided modern seismic protection.
The US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation also provided financial aid to restore the Changu Narayan Temple and other monuments in the Kathmandu Valley. This grant addressed immediate conservation needs and supported sustainable tourism and community development.
The restoration work at the temple has been challenging. Engineers and conservation experts have focused on strengthening the foundations and walls to enhance the temple’s earthquake resistance. Restorers have cataloged and repaired damaged artifacts, sculptures, and carvings. Local artisans have participated in the restoration, preserving traditional techniques and involving the community.
Restoring Changu Narayan Temple has been a lengthy process, carefully balancing historical accuracy with modern earthquake safety features. This approach ensures the preservation of the temple’s heritage while enhancing its resilience against future disasters.
Conclusion
Changu Narayan Temple is a crucial site for Nepal's cultural and religious history. This ancient Hindu temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, boasts beautiful architecture, detailed carvings, and a serene atmosphere. It faces south from the top of a hill, offering stunning views and a peaceful retreat from the city.
As one of the temples to visit in Kathmandu, the temple's rich history and associated local legends attract both pilgrims and tourists. Despite facing natural disasters over time, Changu Narayan remains an important place of worship and a symbol of Nepalese traditions.
Visitors can witness Hindu rituals, admire ancient artifacts, and explore nearby areas of interest. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Changu Narayan enhances Nepal's spiritual heritage and architectural legacy, providing a memorable experience for those interested.
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