Reasons to Choose Tsergo Ri Trek
Since we already had experience trekking over 5,000m, we could’ve gone for other tough routes, but with limited time and tight schedules, we chose the Langtang Valley Trek. Elle was eager for the trip, especially since I’d been visiting the Langtang Region since 2018. We had everything planned, but our only concern was the availability of teahouses due to the off-season. I’d also heard in advance that most villagers were in Kathmandu for their biggest festival, Lhosar. I called my friend Sonam at Kyanjin Gumba, and he made sure everything was set for us to start the trek.
The Tsergo Ri hike is flawless for trekkers seeking a more secret, off-the-beaten-path adventure. Unlike the busy trails of Everest and Annapurna, Langtang Valley and Tsergo Ri provide privacy, unspoiled nature, and a genuine affinity with the local culture.
This hike is ideal for those wanting to fully experience the beauty of the Himalayas without the commercialization of popular routes. It's not just about reaching the summit, it’s about the journey through various landscapes, meaningful cultural relations, and the deep sense of peace that only the Himalayas can bring.
Our Itinerary and Activities
Day 1: Drive to Syafrubeshi & Search for Porter
We had rented a private car to take us to our destination for the day, Rasuwa. Our cordial driver, Jitendra, arrived at the hotel right on time to pick us up. We set off in the sunrise, driving across the ring road and onto Tokha road, with dazzling views of the shining mountains along the way. After about two hours, we reached the beautiful basin of Trishuli, which was spectacular. We chose to stop for lunch in Nuwakot, and as usual, I craved fish rice there. Elle wasn’t hungry enough for a full plate, so she decided to share, like always.
After a delightful lunch, we continued our drive uphill toward Rasuwa, passing by narrow roads, quiet village scenes, and the stunning Trishuli Valley below. We reached the Langtang National Park check post an hour later, where I got Elle's park permit. I had already taken care of the TIMS Card a week earlier in Kathmandu. After logging our entry, we descended along the bending roads of Rasuwa. By midday, we arrived in Syafrubeshi, our stop for the first night. Jitendra dropped us off at the hotel and immediately headed back to Kathmandu.
Usually, I had the same porter every time I visited the Langtang Region, but this time, my regular guy, Mr. Gyaljen Sherpa, was unreachable due to the off-season. So, when we reached our hotel, I asked the owner to arrange a porter for us. Elle insisted she could easily carry her bag and didn't need one, but I wanted to avoid any problems on the trek. They found a young boy who agreed to be our porter for the journey. In the evening, Elle and I took a short walk through the streets of Syafrubeshi, capturing the evening light and street dogs. After enjoying a mouthwatering dal bhat, we went to bed early, ready to start the trek in good spirits the next day.
Day 2: Syafrubeshi to Lama Hotel
Early in the morning, after a delicious breakfast, we began our trek. Due to hydropower construction along the route, the trail up to Tiwari was a bit boring, unless you take the classic route on the other side of the river, which I promised Elle we'd take on the way back. She was simply enjoying the hike today. We joked around and shared stories from our lives until we reached Pairo for a short break. The trail was mostly uphill, so I gave Elle the usual flexibility to pace herself. We had a delicious dal bhat at Bamboo, and our young porter stayed close by, so I treated him to some biscuits and a bottle of Coke for the day. Elle loved the walk, spotting lots of monkeys (Langurs) and cliff honey hives along the way. By midday, we reached Rimche, grabbed a coffee together, and continued down to Lama Hotel after a quick rest.
We headed to Hotel Jungle View for our overnight stay. I searched for the owner, Urgen Dai, but he wasn’t around. Since it was the off-season, some of his relatives from a nearby Sherpa village were running the hotel, and they were exceptionally kind. The family was warm and welcoming, and Elle immediately liked them, especially their little son, who wasn’t feeling well when we arrived. We suggested to the owners that they give him proper medicine, hoping to see him better when we returned in a few days.
Day 3: Lama Hotel to Langtang Village
The morning felt incredibly fresh. We sat by the oven and ordered chapatis for breakfast, which Elle absolutely loved, specifically with honey. Afterward, we set off for Langtang Village. The route was beautiful today, with sightings of deer and monkeys along the way. We stopped for lunch at Ghoda Tabela and continued our hike through Thyangshyap. From Gumba, we could see Langtang Village in the distance, but the sky had turned dark, and I started picking up the pace. Elle, however, stayed calm, trusting her intuition. And then, in just a few minutes, wow! The sky transformed into a deep golden shade as rays of sunlight broke through the dark clouds. We stood in complete wonder, silently witnessing nature's magic, and Elle was brought to tears by the moment. We continued, crossed the landslide site, and finally reached Langtang Village.
With most hotels closed, we stayed at Hotel Kailash, a spot recommended by my brother from Langtang, Mr. Babu Tamang. Just as we arrived, the sky lit up in a vibrant display and it was one of the most sensational sunsets we had ever witnessed. That evening, we enjoyed dinner, reflecting on the day's experiences, and then settled in for a good night's rest, ready for the journey onwards.
Day 4: Kyanjin Gompa, Hike to Glacier Lake & Stargazing
Today was a relaxed day since the trek to Kyanjin Gompa would only take about 3 to 4 hours. In the morning, Elle mentioned she hadn’t come across any mountain dogs yet and seemed a bit down about it. As we continued walking, we encountered a lovely black dog in Sindhum Village. I asked the owner if we could take the dog along to Kyanjin Gompa, and he quickly agreed. Elle was overjoyed, chatting with the dog, while I stayed busy seizing every moment. We took our time, snapping lots of photographs along the way, and eventually arrived in Langtang. My usual place, Moonlight Lodge, was closed, so we stayed at Panorama Lodge instead, which was a great choice. We had the entire hotel to ourselves, making it even better.
Later in the afternoon, I took Elle to visit Nepal’s first hydropower station, fed by a glacier lake. It was a beautiful short hike, and we timed it perfectly, reaching just before dusk. The sunset added the charm, with the sun playing hide and seek behind the clouds. We sat by the lake, having serious conversations while taking in the views of the tall Langtang Lirung and its surrounding peaks. Afterward, we made our way back to the lodge, enjoyed a delicious dinner, and pre-ordered breakfast for the next morning, knowing we’d have to wake up early for the Tsergo Ri hike.
Before heading to our beds, we decided to do some stargazing from the roof of our lodge. It was freezing, so Elle bundled up in all her big jackets, and I joined her to photograph the stars with her camera. Elle is quite sensitive to the cold and was feeling it extremely on the rooftop, but I managed to snap a few shots of the stars with the mountains in the background. After a quick photo session, we hurried back to our room. Trust me, Langtang Valley is one of the best spots in Nepal for stargazing. You should try it if you visit!
Day 5: The big push to the Tsergo Ri summit
Today was a big day for us, as we were climbing about 1200 meters in elevation in just one day. Yet, we weren’t worried at all as we were the perfect travel partners. Early in the morning, we set off with some Tibetan bread, hot water, and a few empty cups from the kitchen. We commenced our walk, following the sunrise and heading northeast from Kyanjin Gompa. There was no rush, we enjoyed every moment, and I made sure to let Elle take her time, guaranteeing she didn’t feel pressured during the climb.
Oh man, what an incredible view! With every step, we climbed higher, revealing sensational peaks and vast landscapes below. Before the final stretch, we had to slow down as the wind picked up, growing stronger with each breath. When we finally reached the summit at 4,985m, the view was so spectacular. The sense of accomplishment was unmatched, and the sight of the endless mountain ridges spread out before us was amazing.
Seeing Elle’s eyes glowing in the mountains always brings me a special kind of happiness. From where we stood, we could witness the stunning beauty of Langtang Lirung, Mt. Ghenchampo, Powell Scout Peak, Pongen Dopku, Dshabu Ri, Langshisa Ri, Gurkarpo Ri, Dorje Lhakpa, Ramthang Ri, Loenpo Gang, Naya Kanga, and several other peaks. We captured some amazing photographs, then found shelter under a rock to escape the wind, enjoying Tibetan bread and coffee for lunch while surrounded by a breathtaking 360-degree mountain view. The best part was the peace and privacy we found throughout the trek, thanks to the low season.
After an hour at the summit, we descended back to Kyanjin Gompa (3,880m) feeling energized. The sundown that day was truly out of this world. In the evening, we returned to our lodge, warmed up in the dining area for a few hours, enjoyed a delicious dal bhat, and went to bed early to help our muscles recover fast.
Day 6-8: A fun descending to Syafrubeshi
The morning after summiting Tsergo Ri, we took it easy, starting the day at a comfortable pace. After breakfast, it was time to head back to Syafrubeshi. We looked and captured one last view of Kyanjin Gompa before making our way down to Lama Hotel for the night. Along the way, we stopped at Sindhum Valley Homestay, where I caught up with the owner, an old friend. We had a great chat over black coffee, and he kindly gave me some dried juniper as a blessing. After our quick visit, we had lunch at Thyangshyap, and later at Ghoda Tabela, we decided to take the old trail to Riverside. The jungle was as beautiful as ever, and the sound of the rushing Langtang Khola gave us extra energy for the walk. By the time we reached Lama Hotel in the evening, it had started raining, and we were warmly greeted once again by the lovely family at Jungle View Lodge.
The owner's little boy was still sick, so Elle decided to give him some essential medicine and carefully explained the proper dosage to his family. By the next morning, the boy was feeling much better and was smiling as we said our goodbyes after breakfast.
Exactly one week into our trek, we began our walk back to Syafrubeshi. The trail was familiar, and we took a few breaks to make reels and capture some photographs. As I had promised Elle earlier, I guided her along the old trail to Syafrubeshi, crossing the bridge at Tiwari and following the less-trekked path. This route is a bit rough, and most trekkers now prefer to take the main road along the Langtang Khola instead.
As we crossed the bridge at Tiwari, a beautiful furry dog was waiting for us there. To our surprise, the dog walked with us all the way to our hotel in Syafrubeshi, where the dog was well-known by the locals. Elle's face lit up the entire time, happy to have found a dog on our return trek. Earlier that morning, I had already called our driver, Jitendra in the morning, and we met him at Syafrubeshi when we arrived.
Last Dinner and Happy Porter
Our young porter joined us for our final dinner, and though he was shy, I could tell he was happy. Later that evening, I visited his family to check in and knew that his father had been in a motorcycle accident and was on bed rest for a long time. Elle gave the boy a generous tip, and I handed him his trek salary, adding a few extra thousand as a bonus. I also gifted him my fleece jacket, which made him happy. We had found this boy as our porter at the last minute because my regular porter was unreachable, and I took him along to help him financially by paying him well and treating him like a younger brother. The major concern here is that no matter who your porter is, always treat them with respect, and reward them with good tips and fair pay at the end of your trek.
After a great conversation after dinner, we went to bed. The next morning, we set off for the beautiful city of Pokhara with our trusted man, Jitendra.
Some Practical Information for Tsergo Ri Trek
Best time to visit Tsergo Ri: The perfect time for the Tsergo Ri hike is in the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the weather is stable and the views are at their best. However, we chose to go in February, during the off-season. If you plan to trek during low seasons, it's important to inform hotel owners in advance and check room availability beforehand.
Required Permits for Langtang Region: Trekkers need to obtain the Langtang National Park Permit and a TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card. You can issue your TIMS form Kathmandu and for the national park permit, you can get that before entering the national park.
Accommodation: Teahouses and lodges are available along the way, offering fundamental but comfortable facilities.
Difficulty Level: Moderate to difficult. Proper acclimatization is vital to avoid altitude sickness.
At the end
The Tsergo Ri hike in the Langtang Region was truly remarkable for us. Since we trekked during the low season, we had plenty of privacy, and the entire journey was peaceful, as we were the only ones on the route in February. If you're looking for a rewarding mountain experience within a week, this trek is a fantastic selection. Each day offers new challenges and rewards, from the warm hospitality of the locals to the spectacular summit views. Whether you're a regular trekker or a beginner, the Tsergo Ri trek offers an experience that will leave a lasting impression long after you return home.
